From Hoi An we took the sleeper bus south once more this time stopping in Nha Trang, it rained non stop for must of the journey and with reports of floods and closed road we were not sure what would await us. But as morning broke the sun rose over a cloud sprinkled blue sky, we were in luck and for the next two days we enjoyed sunshine and sand with a touch of Siagon (our beer of choice in these parts).
We spent an afternoon lounging by a pool at a bar which had it's own stretch of beach and it's own brewery! Iit felt great. The following day we went up to a mineral mud spa and spent the day wallowing in mud which we were assured would leave our pores clear and our skin clean. It was a little random but fun non the less, and Jill was in her element. As we headed back to the centre of Nha Trnag we saw some of the impact the rain had been having, landslides had taken away entire homes and water had brought mud and sand into the luckier peoples front rooms. It was sobering to see.
After two days of not doing too much we took a day bus 8 hours (actual time = 12 hours) southeast to Ho Chi Min City where we planned to spend a couple of days taking in the history of country we had now seen so much of. We arrived after the sun had already descended to more chaotic scenes of terrible weather, people waist deep in water that surged through the streets. We were staying further from the river and so were not directly affected by the rise in water but it was a shock.
We spent our time in HCMC staying at a guesthouse run by Ms Thu, a rather strict and chatty women, but at $10 a night including breakfast, with satellite TV and AC in the room you can't go far wrong. We spent our first full day getting to know the city, walking the very busy and noisy streets to the Ben Thanh market where we were asked, "You want t-shirt?" "What you looking for? we got!" every 5 feet. It was great! The're a nation of hagglers.
We visited the Reunification Palace which we a strange experience, it is as if time stopped the day the tanks broke through the gates more than 35 years ago. A place of huge significance for all Vietnamese. We then went to the War Remnants Museum which was a hugely moving experience despite the massive bias that you encounter. It brought home what an horrific time these people have had to endure over many decades. For me the most moving moment came when looking at the photography exhibiton Requiem which has been put together by Tim Page and shows some of the most amazing, shocking and memorable images of the conflict. It also focuses on the people behind the lense, many of whom died on the front line trying to make the world aware of what was happening. It was exteamly sad to see the caption to indicate that this was the last reel of film the photographer used. Understandable we left this feeling quiet low but at the same time very glad we had seen it.
The following day we drove out to the Cu Chi Tunnels, north of HCMC and where a lot of bombs were dropped and fighting took place. After the previous day it hit home even more. We went into one of the tunnels and went through the 20 metre section, you can go the entire 140 metres but 20 was more than enough for me, it was hot, tight and very dark, and these are the enlarged tunnels twice the size of the originals!
In the afternoom we explored more of the city and made plans to head into the Mekong Delta for our final few days of our Vietnam leg. We had both warmed to the Vietnamese people over the last couple of weeks and are finding the south much more friendly and outgoing than in the north and I think doing this section last has been great. And so on to the Mekong . . .
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